Cloud Brocade Clothing

The Charm and Cultural Significance of Cloud Brocade Clothing

Yunjin clothing, with its ‘ inch brocade inch gold ‘ luxury reputation, is the peak representative of Chinese traditional silk culture.

As a derivative of Nanjing brocade, Yunjin is a traditional brocade fabric derived from Nanjing.Its surface texture flows like clouds, with bright colors and a three-dimensional sense.

This cloud brocade is not only an internationally recognized luxury handmade silk fabric, but also a masterpiece of intangible cultural heritage recognized by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) in 2009, symbolizing the essence of Oriental aesthetics.

In the fashion world, Yunjin is often translated as ‘ Cloud Brocade ‘, emphasizing its artistry and cultural connotation, and helping consumers around the world understand its unique charm.

The cultural significance of cloud brocade clothing is far-reaching. It is not only one of Nanjing ‘s ” three absolutes ” (with the same name as rain flower stone and folding fan), but also embodies three core aesthetic concepts : the beauty of luxury and publicity, the gorgeous pattern interweaved by gold and silver thread, and the royal noble temperament ; lyric and elegant beauty, through the soft silk texture and cloud-like texture, conveys poetry and introversion ; the beauty of celebration etiquette is common in traditional celebration costumes, which integrates auspicious elements such as dragons and phoenixes, flowers and birds, and implies prosperity and harmony.

These aesthetics not only inherit the millennium handicrafts, but also rejuvenate in contemporary fashion, helping cultural enthusiasts to explore the connotation of Chinese silk heritage.

Under the modern concept, the charm of Yunjin clothing lies in its scarcity and manual value. Because all rely on handmade wooden building loom production, each piece is unique, very low yield, which also makes it become the darling of the luxury market.

The Historical Evolution and Contemporary Inheritance of Yunjin Brocade

As a representative of Chinese traditional silk, the evolution of cloud brocade has gradually shifted from ancient royal exclusive to contemporary cultural inheritance and innovation.

In modern times, the protection and development of cloud brocade has been internationally recognized. In 2009, it was included in the list of intangible cultural heritage of mankind by UNESCO, which marks its transformation from traditional crafts to global cultural symbols.

This recognition not only enhances the international influence of Yunjin, but also promotes the improvement of China ‘s intangible cultural heritage protection system and the development of related research and education activities.

As the core institution, Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute supports 24 national intangible cultural heritage inheritors, who ensure the purity of Yunjin weaving through the skills passed down from generation to generation.

These inheritors not only master complex manual operations, but also participate in innovative design, integrating traditional patterns into contemporary products.

In 2013, the establishment of Yunjin College further strengthened the inheritance of education. The college has set up professional courses and practice bases, trained young craftsmen, and combined digital tools to assist pattern design and weaving simulation, which helps to solve the problem of aging of inheritors and integrate Yunjin into the vocational education system.

In addition, the establishment of the training base has expanded public participation, such as museum workshops and community activities, so that more people can understand the cultural value of cloud brocade.

In contemporary times, the evolution of cloud brocade emphasizes sustainable development and business innovation. Nanjing Yunjin Museum collects precious objects from the Warring States Period to the Ming and Qing Dynasties, displays the evolution track, and promotes its social value through exhibitions.

Detailed Explanation of the Production Process of Yunjin Clothing

The production process of cloud brocade clothing is mainly manual, relying on the traditional wooden building loom, which requires the cooperation of two craftsmen. This process is derived from the ancient jacquard technology, which can not be fully mechanized, and the daily output is only 5-6 cm, so it is called ‘ inch gold inch gold ‘.

The main materials include high-quality mulberry silk, gold and silver thread and natural plant dyes. Nanjing Qinhuai River water is used for dyeing to enhance the luster of silk.

The process is divided into five steps : pattern design, wear comprehensive buckle, raw material preparation, installation machine and weaving, reflecting complexity and artistry.

There are various kinds of cloud brocade, such as makeup flower ( color pattern interweaving ), Zhijin county ( gold thread decoration ), palace satin ( plain base ) and Kujin ( twill variant ), each with unique texture.

The detailed explanation of the production process of Yunjin clothing reveals the subtlety and complexity of this intangible cultural heritage technique. The whole process involves hundreds of processes, emphasizing manual collaboration and fine material processing.

As a UNESCO-accredited process, cloud brocade uses an old-fashioned large-span building loom ( approximately 5.6 m long, 4 m high, and 1.4 m wide ), operated by two craftsmen : one controls the pattern on the upper jacquard thread, and the other controls the weft weaving on the lower part.

The material is mainly pure mulberry silk, supplemented by gold and silver foil wire ( gold wire is made of gold foil wrapped wire ). The dye is extracted from the plant to ensure environmental protection and lasting color.

The dyeing process uses the weak alkalinity of Qinhuai River water to promote the silk smoothness and brightness of silk.

The detailed steps are as follows :

Pattern design : based on traditional patterns such as dragon and phoenix, cloud patterns or flowers and birds, use grid paper to enlarge the design and convert it into jacquard instructions. Modern can assist digital tools, but the core relies on manual drawing.

Wearing integrated buckle : create a pattern template on the loom, and then form a complex pattern by controlling the warp lifting.

Raw material preparation : selection of high-quality silk thread, counting, fiber extraction, winding, dyeing. The gold and silver wires need special treatment to avoid fracture.

Installation machine : Assemble loom columns and weft shuttles to ensure accurate arrangement of warp and weft. The shuttle is made of croissants or steel, suitable for different wires.

Weaving : the core link, using ‘passing warp and breaking weft ‘ technology, craftsmen collaborative shuttle, hundreds of operations per centimeter. The pattern color can be adjusted immediately, reflecting the craftsman ‘s judgment.

How to Buy High-quality Yunjin Clothing

Purchasing high-quality cloud brocade clothing needs to focus on material, process and source to ensure real manual value.

As an intangible cultural heritage of UNESCO, the price of Nanjing Yunjin brocade handmade brocade products ranges from hundreds of dollars of entry-level scarves to tens of thousands of dollars of high-end customized gowns. The following guidelines help potential customers and cultural enthusiasts to identify authenticity and select appropriate products.

First of all, understand the core characteristics of Yunjin : Yunjin uses 100 % mulberry silk, gold and silver thread and natural dyes, the fabric is thick ( 300 + GSM grams ), the surface is a three-dimensional cloud texture, patterns such as dragon and phoenix, cloud patterns are woven through jacquard technology, rather than surface printing and dyeing or embroidery.

Fake goods often use polyester fiber, which has smooth texture but lacks elasticity, and the pattern is easy to fade. When purchasing, priority should be given to the use : light and thin makeup flower varieties are selected for daily wear, and gold or brocade is selected for collection or etiquette occasions.

How to Distinguish True and False Cloud Brocade?

Label inspection : view the ‘ 100 % mulberry silk ‘ or ‘ UNESCO non-legacy certification ‘ label. Avoid the words ‘ synthetic fiber ‘ or ‘ silk imitation ‘. real cloud brocade is often accompanied by a certificate of origin, such as the certification of Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute.

Tactile and appearance : the true cloud brocade touch is soft, cool and elastic, and slowly recovers after extrusion ; the fake is wrinkled and uniform as plastic. Observation of luster : silk is pearlescent soft change, pattern three-dimensional and the reverse texture is consistent.

Burning test ( careful operation, only test sample ) : silk burning is slow, smells like burnt hair, ash crisp black fragile ; the synthetic wire burns fast, smells like plastic, ash hard block.

Friction test : use the palm friction pattern area, real cloud brocade line is not loose ; fake goods are easy to fluff or drop.

Weight and density : high-quality cloud brocade is heavy ( 300-450 g per square meter ), high texture density ( at least 60×50 TPI ), neat edges without looseness.

How to Maintain Yunjin Clothing ?

Proper maintenance of Yunjin clothing can greatly prolong its service life and the gorgeous luster of ‘ inch gold ‘. As a representative of the manual brocade process of Nanjing Yunjin, Yunjin contains gold and silver lines and mulberry silk, which are vulnerable to water, heat and friction damage, so professional dry cleaning is preferred. If you need to wash your hands, follow the following steps to ensure gentle operation.

Cleaning skills

Dry cleaning priority : Send Yunjin clothing to professional dry cleaners to avoid house cleaning to prevent deformation or fading. Dry cleaning can effectively remove stains without damaging the fiber.

Hand washing method ( only light stains ) : Immerse in room temperature water ( less than 30 ° C ) and neutral silk special lotion for 15-20 minutes, gently rub and wash the stain area, and avoid rubbing or scrubbing. Do not use bleach, alkaline soap or hot water to prevent gold wire oxidation or silk shrinkage.

Local cleaning : for small stains, with soft cloth dip diluted lotion gently pat, don ‘t soak the whole clothing.

Drying method : natural hanging shade dry, avoid direct sunlight or dryer, to prevent fading and deformation. Do not twist, use a towel to gently press the water absorption.

Storage and daily maintenance

Storage environment : placed in a dry, cool, ventilated place, using acid-free paper towels or cotton wrap, to prevent dust and moth. Avoid plastic bag sealing to prevent moisture from causing mildew.

Dustproof treatment : After wearing, gently sweep the dust with a soft brush, or rinse the surface with a room temperature water hand to remove the surface dust.

Ironing Note : If you need to iron, use low-temperature steam to operate from the reverse side, pads to protect the pattern.

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